The Roman Amphitheatre in Caerleon

   

Unique

  This impressive amphitheatre is the only one of its kind preserved in Britain and is free to visit, a microadventure 2000 years back in time. It is remarkable that any of it survives as many of the stones were plundered by local inhabitants as building materials for their own dwellings. The Romans settled in Isca, as they called Caerleon, deriving the name from that of the river Usk (Wysg), from 74 A.D. to late in the 4th century. The town was a neat walled rectangle housing members of the Second Augustan Legion, transferred from Strasbourg to Britain in 43 A.D. Most of it is buried under the present village.

The troops watch

  This construction was used for gory combats between gladiators, animal baiting and military exercises and was built around 80 A.D., the same time as the Colosseum. Up to 6000 soldiers would watch from the massive oval earth banks revetted with stone and buttressed on the outside. On the inside the stone was covered with white plaster and on top of the banks were tiers of wooden seats. You can still see a working drain beneath a grille.

  I was transfixed by the sign on the floor where a gladiator stood before entering the arena, possibly never to come out alive.

Legend and fact

  Until the twentieth century the site was known as King Arthur's Round Table, possibly because of Tennyson's links with Caerleon, and was believed to be Camelot. (The poet pondered on and planned Idylls of the King in the Hanbury Arms.) It was excavated in 1926-7 by Sir Mortimer Wheeler and his wife and revealed as the marvel we can relish today.

   I stood where he stood when his blood

   Ran cold and dry, then hot

   As Roman sun, so distant now

   And cooling like his fighter's vow

   To win at Camelot.

Then and now

  Where there was crimson-stained sand, there is now grass, and where men and beasts fought to the death, small boys can now have an informal game of football - though the last one I happened to see was getting fairly blood-thirsty by the end. It quite put me off my CAKE.

There is open access to this site.  Other sites of great interest are: the friendly Museum, the Roman Baths and the remains of the Barracks - all free to enter. You can also go on to Usk on the no 60 bus where the Legion was stationed previously.

Apart from the number 60 bus (see footnote at the very bottom of page) there is a frequent local service (27, 28, 29) between Caerleon and Newport, about 10 minutes away.

For opening hours click here

Kandy goes to the gym on a bus

New Chums
     When you travel on the same bus regularly, you meet and chat to other passengers and become friends. That is how I met Gerry and her lovely dog, Kandy. (Gerry is lovely, too!)
 
Kandy's outings
     Kandy has been Gerry's constant companion for nearly four years as a seeing and hearing dog trained by Guide Dogs Cymru: her name is spelled with a "K" because they work down the alphabet to name the puppies. Her harness label reads "Please don't distract me, I'm a working dog" and one of the other tags asks people not to feed her as it is vital that these animals receive a carefully controlled diet at home. Here they are off to the gym at the Newport Centre where Kandy waits patiently on guard whilst Gerry does a full work-out. Kandy is aware 5 minutes before her bus stop (more than most humans manage!) and stands up ready for work. When they go shopping in Cwmbran she knows that the quickest way from the bank to her favourite coffee bar is through Smiths and she heads off there once the chores are complete, presumably looking forward to the aromas and social life, canine and two-legged.

Please think again, Monmouthshire
   Monmouthshire Council has recently cut this number 60 service in half by reducing the buses from one an hour to one every two hours: how do they imagine that affects people who, for whatever reason, have no other choice of transport? Badly done, Monmouthshire, badly done.

Usk Castle

Domesticated castle

  "Charming" is an unusual word to use of a venerable ancient monument but Usk Castle has that magical quality. It is owned by the Humphreys family and has a relaxed, intimate feel with plump chickens happily scratching, geese sometimes present and the reindeer for the annual Santa parade stabled here beforehand. I once stopped off there with my family en route for a long walk and we found ourselves still lolling in the sun two hours later.  We then had a gentle pootle on the ramparts! On another occasion, the chickens were out on the grass and six golden brown feathery bundles started pecking our trousers gently as if they were administering acupuncture - so soothing!

A few dates

   Construction was probably started soon after the Norman Conquest and the Keep is the earliest stone structure, built by Richard de Clare, aka Strongbow, after he recovered it in the twelfth century. The main imposing castle dates from the time of William Marshall (early thirteenth century) who won de Clare's daughter by knocking the future King Richard I off his horse in a joust. The first record is in 1138 when the Welsh seized it from the de Clare family. It has changed ownership many times. In 1185, £10.35 was spent on it by the Crown and there was a substantial garrison of 10 archers, 10 residents, 15 'mobile' sergeants, 4 watchmen, a chaplain and clerk. One wonders who did the cooking! 

Usk battle

   The last major event in the history of the castle was the battle of Pwll Melyn ( Yellow Pool) where the forces of Owain Glyndwr, led by his eldest son, were defeated by the English. Archdeacon Coxe wrote in 1799 that "no castle in Monmouthshire has been subject to more frequent assaults" and we know it was in ruins by 1587. It was probably in 1750 that the old gatehouse was converted into Castle House by the Duke of Beaufort.

Still idiosyncratic

   More recently Simon Jenkins described it as "wild, unmanicured and idiosyncratic" and, although it has been tidied up and is very well maintained, it remains informal and personal.  Visitors are asked to make a small donation and transfer a pebble from one bowl to another for record keeping, surely the most delightful way of keeping accounts.

Other attractions

   Usk Castle is a short walk north from Twyn Square and is well worth the detour, being both relaxing and atmospheric. There is glamping at nearby Castle Knights in Medieval (style!) pavilions as well as events throughout the year. Weddings can be held here and where better? If you fancy a short walk you can take the path to the right of the car park and see the Medieval battle site of Pwll Melyn. The number 60 bus will take you on to Raglan with its imposing castle or, in the other direction, to Caerleon with its Roman remains.

For opening hours click here: the castle is open during reasonable daylight hours.

The Abergavenny Tithe Barn

Tax dodging

   The word "tithe" derives from the Old English "teogotha" meaning a tenth and these were paid as a compulsory contribution of 10% by parishioners to a religious organisation or government, often in the form of agricultural produce which was stored in a barn and went towards the support of the village priest - who was exempt. Naturally this provoked anger as can be heard in the rousing harvest song from the 5th Act of Dryden's opera of King Arthur:

                 We've cheated the parson, we'll cheat him again,

                  For why should a blockhead have one in ten?

It seems that tax evasion was just as popular then as it is now!

  

Restoration 

   This 13th century barn in Abergavenny was in danger of collapse in 1948 when the parish sold it for £400 and, during its recent history, it has been used as a carpet shop, a store for timber and grain, a theatre and a discotheque. By the late 1990's St Mary's Church had the vision for it to become an amenity at the heart of the community and it has been carefully restored: during the 4 year process scorch marks left by Owain Glyndwr's arson were found.  Prince Charles visited at the beginning of the work and again at the end.

 For the visitor

   It now houses a museum, a learning centre with interactive displays, information about the Tudors, a superb tapestry, a cafe and shop where you can buy inexpensive items such as bookmarks for 20p. Entry is free. The tapestry was made from 400 colours of wool in special stitching to give a 3D effect and was worked on from Monday to Saturday, 10a.m. till 4 p.m. It took 3 years 10 months to complete (if a bit of needlework was not quite right, it had to be unpicked) but it was ready before the Barn was completely renovated. It depicts Abergavenny's landscape and history (imaginatively!) with the motto: "Hostes nunc amici" (enemies now friends).

Serendipity and calorie therapy

   I was lucky to hear an informative talk on this amazing piece of work and afterwards - you've guessed it - had a large slice of scrumptious CAKE. If you are also emboldened by gateau you may like to go on to the Castle and ponder the gruesome massacre that took place there in the 12th century. It is only a short walk. Before that, just across the path is the church of St Mary's where there are fascinating medieval effigies.

How to get there

   Bus information at the very bottom of the page. The Barn is a few minutes' walk from the main bus station  at the bottom of town which is (though we don't mention this) next to a large car park.

For opening hours click here

A coffee walk from Monmouth

Two Wye walks

   You can walk up the River Wye on its east bank (English side) or the west (Welsh). Both can lead to Symonds Yat and the fab food at The Saracens Head but there is a short, pictureque walk up the western side starting just before the Wye Bridge and past the rowing shed. This leads to a delightful path through several gates marked in poker work before you arrive at St Peter's Church after just over a thousand metres.

Using the river

  When I visited I was lucky enough to be the first person to see the new information sign as they were erecting it. It tells how there used to be a ferry serving the other bank from the nearby steps and how the vicar would have to row over. When a new bell was needed in 1420 it was brought in a flat-bottomed boat from the casting house in Worcester. 

St. Peter's Church

   The church is subject to floods of up to six metres: brass markers inside shows the height of recent ones. and so precious items are stored on a balcony with a beautiful oak screen. Nevertheless there has been a church or monastery here since 735, referred to in the Book of Llandaff, which later developed fishing rights.  For a while after about 1350, a French priest was appointed but this was frowned on by the then Bishop of Hereford. Herring bone masonry on the north wall may be Saxon but, despite the church's antiquity, services are still held here with refreshments afterwards. The church is open all day and visitors are welcome.

Didwyg the hermit

   At one time it was dedicated to the Welsh saint Tydiwig or Tadeous but I have also heard of an early Christian hermit called Didwyg, who may be the same man since Welsh initial consonants mutate under certain conditions. In my heart I have grown fond of Didwyg and his evident capacity to survive flooding in return for such a peaceful environment - I could almost feel his presence.

                             Didwig's still here: his hermitage
                             Shapes in my mind. I see
                             A simple man, poor and alone
                             But never lonely. Breezes blown
                             From God fill vacancy.              

Calorie intake

   Afterwards I went to the Whole Earth cafe in the White Swan court where I enjoyed a warm welcome, a pot of decaff tea and a delicious home-made CAKE, choosing from a range of specialities, including Thai. Yummy! There are links to other places of interest near Monmouth on the post about Henry V who was born here. The no 69 bus takes you to Tintern Abbey or Chepstow Castle.

Monmouth is served by these buses: 34, 35, 35A, 36, 54, 60, 65, 69, 83, 705 and the local town services. 

See detailed timetable link at the very bottom of this page.

By the River Wye at Chepstow

An attraction for all
   The name Chepstow derives from the Old English "chepe stowe" meaning a place of trade or market centre. After the Norman Conquest the town became a key location as the Normans could cross at the low bridging point and extend themselves into Wales. In the late eighteenth century a growing fashionable interest in the picturesque attracted visitors and painters who took boats from Ross-on-Wye and Monmouth. They admired nearby Tintern Abbey, Piercefield House and the ruins of Chepstow Castle in their yearning for romantic beauty.

Relax by the river
   Nowadays it is worth taking time to pause by the river and walk over the Wye via the 1816 cast iron bridge into England (I told you we'd be going abroad on our microadventures!) Before that there was a ferry called by the Romans Tratica Augustus; a later one was used by Charles I when fleeing a troop of Cromwell's men. On the Welsh side there is also a pretty bandstand used for concerts in the summer, the best Information Centre I have ever been into and the Museum. There are magnificent limestone cliffs and the river here has one of the highest tidal ranges in the world, dropping by almost 15 metres between high and low tide. There are some lovely walks from here.

Walking down through the town
   Before you leave you will probably want to visit the castle. Chepstow is served by several buses including the 65 and 69 (the 69 takes you to Tintern Abbey) to Monmouth and the 63 to Usk with its castle,several from Newport as well as local ones and some from England. The bus station is at the top of town (near an M&S Food Hall): you then pass under the Town Gate, rebuilt in 1524 from its late 13 century origins and renovated since, down one of the attractive streets until you reach the river.

Dropping Clangers on the bus

CLANGERS
  This is not about failing to observe the conventions of Bus Etiquette! It concerns the excellent acronym coined by Dr Phil Hammond in his wise and informative book: Staying Alive. Bus travel can help you to achieve those daily aims and is particularly valuable for those past their youth. If you don't have a free bus pass and are eligible, get one and, if you have one, start using it more and more. Then - drop C.L.A.N.G.E.R.S on your local bus.







THE ACRONYM UNZIPPED
  
  C is for Connect. As the picture shows, bus passengers help one another, chat, smile and discuss what is going on in their community.

   L is for Learn. When you are out and about on the bus you learn from others and from all the local attractions you visit. There is history all around you, in Monmouthshire particularly. You can read or Google on most buses - and one day you might even remember the time-tables!

   A is for be Active. Even walking to your bus stop can add precious steps to your aim of 10,000 a day and you can get a little breathless as you do it. You can go for lovely walks from bus stops and I shall be mentioning some.

   N is for Notice. What could be better than looking out of the window, watching the countryside bowl past and noticing what is going on? Castles and cows! When you arrive you will be fresh to observe everything you find.

   G is for Give. You can give help to others on the bus and, by not using your car, you are giving to a greener environment.

   E is for Eat Well. All the cafes etc I mention on this blog serve good, wholesome food: locally sourced produce can be found all over Monmouthshire in restaurants, markets and specialist shops. Remember, also, the bus riders' ditty: "You're better on a bus than on the sofa eating chips," sung to the tune of John Brown's Body ...

   R is for Relax. You don't need me to tell you how stressful driving can be and parking can be worse. Sit back and enjoy someone else's taking the strain.

   S is for Sleep.  Hmmmm. Perhaps not unless your destination is a terminus! Yet you'll sleep better at night for having had a stress-free day and a microadventure.

My benefit
   Since I sold my car and go everywhere on the bus and on foot I have dropped daily Clangers in this way. I feel so much better - and slimmer - for it. Thank you, Dr Hammond and all buses.